Buying a bath is one of those jobs that feels simple until you’re standing in a small UK bathroom with a tape measure, a door that barely opens, and pipework you’d rather not move. In the middle of buying a bath, you’re usually balancing space, plumbing positions, budget, and who actually uses the bathroom day to day. It matters because once the bath is in, changing it later can mean re-tiling, re-plumbing and unexpected costs.
Use this buyer’s guide to help navigate the key decisions—bath type, fit checks, costs, and installation planning. This bathtub buying guide will help you choose the right bathtub for your home, making sure it’s practical, stylish, and a good fit for your needs.
Buying a bath: the 10-minute decision checklist
If you only have ten minutes, use this section. The aim is to stop you falling in love with a style that won’t fit through the door, won’t work with your boiler, or won’t suit how your household actually lives.
Your non-negotiables (space, who uses it, bathing vs showering)
Start with the reality of your bathroom space, not your dream photo. In many UK homes, the bath has to sit between two walls, under a window, or tight against a boxed-in soil pipe. Measure the room, then think about how people use it.
If you mostly shower, your “perfect bath” might actually be a bathtub with a shower set-up that’s comfortable to stand in and easy to clean. If you love a long soak, the internal depth and shape matter more than the outside length. And if someone in your home has limited mobility, you may need a bath that’s safe to get into now, not “later”.
A useful gut-check is to ask: are you choosing from different types of baths for everyday practicality, relaxation, or resale appeal? You can often get two out of three easily; getting all three takes a bit more planning.
Quick match table: bath type vs needs (UK homes)
This table is a quick “best fit” view for common UK bathroom layouts and routines. It’s not about what’s fashionable; it’s about what works.
| Type of bath | Best for | Typical UK bathroom fit | Watch-outs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Straight bath (single-ended or double-ended bath) | Simple replacement, most homes | Terraces, semis, flats with standard alcove | Check tap end, waste position, and internal depth (some are shallow) |
| Built-in bath (alcove/back-to-wall) | Small bathrooms, clean lines | Boxed-in along one wall or between walls | Needs bath panels and accurate support/levelling |
| Shower bath (P-shaped/L-shaped) | Family bathrooms, “bathe + shower” | One-bathroom homes with daily showers | Needs the right shower screen and enough “shower area” width |
| Freestanding bath / roll top baths / slipper baths | Feature look, spa feel | Larger bathrooms, open space around | Space around, floor strength, and tap choices can complicate installation |
| Corner bath | Awkward layouts, using a corner | Some en-suites and wider family bathrooms | Can eat floor space and make cleaning behind harder |
| Walk-in baths | Accessibility and confidence bathing | Many homes if planned well | You sit and wait while it fills; electrics may be needed for powered seat/fast drain |
The “can it go upstairs?” check (floor loading, access, delivery route)
In a typical UK terrace or flat, the hardest part isn’t choosing the bath. It’s getting it to the bathroom without damage.
Before you buy, walk the delivery route as if you’re carrying a rigid, bulky item. Check the narrowest point: front door, hallway turn, staircase, landing, and bathroom doorway. Measure those widths. A bath might be 1700mm long, but it’s the diagonal angle at the turn that catches people out.
Then think about weight. Most acrylic baths are manageable for upstairs installation with the right handling, but heavier materials (like cast iron baths, and some stone resin baths) can be a different story. Floor strength is usually fine in modern conditions when fitted correctly, but older houses can have springy boards, past water damage, or uneven joists. If you already have an old bath upstairs, that’s a positive sign, but it’s not a free pass if you’re switching to something far heavier.
If you’re in a flat, also check lift size, delivery times, parking restrictions, and whether the supplier will carry it beyond the front entrance. Delivery terms vary, and “kerbside” delivery is common.
Are freestanding baths practical in UK homes?
They can be, but they’re not automatically practical just because they look good. A freestanding bath needs breathing space so you can clean around it, reach the tap, and avoid splashing onto areas with no waterproofing. In many UK bathrooms, the bath sits where the old one sat because the waste and hot/cold feeds are already there. Freestanding often means moving those pipe runs, which adds cost and disruption.
In smaller rooms, it’s important to find the perfect bath that offers both style and practicality, such as a back-to-wall “freestanding-look” bath. You get the softer shape and modern style, but it sits tight to one wall, which can make taps and plumbing simpler and gives you less wasted space.
Choose the right bath type for your home and lifestyle
There are many baths available, each suited to different needs. The best bath types aren’t universally "best"; they’re best for your layout, routine, and how much work you’re willing to put into the room.
Freestanding baths (centre-piece trend, spacing around, tap options)
Freestanding baths continue to be the centre-piece trend in 2026, particularly with their aesthetic appeal, showcasing softer curves and more organic shapes. In UK terms, it works best when you can leave at least a small walkway around the bath, because you’ll need access for cleaning and for any future plumbing work.
Tap choice is a bigger deal with freestanding than most people expect. You’re usually deciding between wall-mounted taps, freestanding floor-mounted taps, or bath-mounted taps if the rim allows it. Floor-mounted taps look striking, but they can push installation complexity up because pipework has to come up through the floor in the right place. That’s easier on a ground floor with solid access than it is on an upstairs bathroom where the ceiling below is finished.
A freestanding bath can transform the feel of the room, turning it into a spa-like retreat with its open design and luxury aesthetic. If your bathroom is already tight, a big sculptural tub can make it feel squeezed. If the room is generous, it can transform the bath experience into something calmer and more “hotel-like”, which is often why people choose it.
Built-in baths (alcove/back-to-wall) for smaller UK bathrooms
Built-in baths are the quiet workhorses of UK bathroom designs. They suit alcoves, they make the best use of wall space, and they’re usually the simplest option if you’re replacing like-for-like.
There are various types of bathtubs, including single-ended baths (one end sloped, taps at the other) or double-ended baths (both ends shaped for reclining, taps in the middle). Double-ended bath designs are great if two people take turns bathing and you don’t want a “right way” and “wrong way” to sit. Choosing the right bath can save you from costly re-plumbing, as the tap and waste position may differ from your existing setup.
Bath panel isn’t just cosmetic. It’s future access. If you tile right down with no access panel, a small leak can turn into a big job.
Shower baths (P-shaped/L-shaped) for UK family bathrooms
In many one-bathroom homes, the bath has to do double duty: bath for kids (or a soak), shower for the weekday rush. That’s where shower baths combine practicality with comfort.
A straight bath with a shower screen can work, but many people find the standing area narrow. P-shaped and L-shaped designs widen one end so you have a more comfortable shower area while keeping a standard length. You’ll also see these sold with matching bath panels and screens, which can make the finish look tidier.
The detail that matters most is how the shower screen seals and how easy it is to clean. A bulky screen with awkward hinges can become a daily annoyance. Also think about where the shower controls will sit, because reaching over a wide end can be uncomfortable.
Walk-in baths for accessibility (side-door, low threshold, powered seat options)
Walk-in baths cater to people who find a standard tub risky or painful to step into. The side door and low threshold can make bathing feel possible again, without relying on a carer for every move.
Feature choices matter. Some models focus on a simple door and a comfortable seat. Others add powered seats that lower you gently, or faster drain systems so you’re not sitting in cooling water while it empties. Those extras add cost, but for the right person they’re the difference between “technically usable” and “actually used”.
One practical point to understand early: with most walk-in baths, you step in, close the door, then fill the bath while seated. That’s normal, but it surprises people who are picturing the usual routine of getting into a ready-filled bath.
Size and fit checks before buying a bath
Most problems with buying one bath over another come down to measurements. Not just bath size, but rim width, internal depth, and where the waste and taps sit.
Standard UK bath sizes (e.g., 1500–1800mm) and what fits where
“Bathtub sizes UK” searches often lead people to length alone, but width and internal depth are just as important. Common lengths in the UK are 1500mm, 1600mm, 1700mm, and 1800mm.
Size chart (typical guidance, always check the listing):
| Nominal length | Typical use | Who it suits |
| 1500mm | Small bathrooms, en-suites | Good for space saving; less lounging room |
| 1600mm | Compact family bathrooms | Middle ground if 1700mm won’t fit |
| 1700mm | Most common straight bath size | Works for many adults and most layouts |
| 1800mm | Larger bathrooms | More comfort; check water volume and access |
Width is often around 700–800mm for straight baths, but the internal width can be much less because of the rim and the shape. If you’re tall, broad-shouldered, or you simply like space, look for internal dimensions rather than the headline number.
When replacing an existing bath, make sure to measure key aspects for compatibility. Rim height (distance from floor to edge of bath) is crucial for ensuring a comfortable fit, especially if your old bath had a different height. Additionally, note the existing tile line finish and panel height—a 10-20mm difference in bath height may require you to re-tile the surrounding area. Always ensure that your new bath matches these measurements to avoid additional work or complications.
Plumbing positions to measure (waste/overflow, hot/cold feeds, existing trap location)
Even when baths “fit”, plumbing can force expensive changes. Before you buy a new bath, measure where the existing bath waste leaves the room and where the trap sits. Then compare it with the new bath’s waste position. If the waste is at the opposite end, the pipe route might have to cross the floor void, which can be simple or a headache depending on joists and access.
Also check:
-
Where the hot and cold feeds come up (floor or wall).
-
Whether you want bath-mounted taps or wall-mounted taps.
-
Where the overflow sits and whether your chosen waste kit matches it.
This is where many people get caught when they buy online without checking a technical drawing. Product photos show style; drawings show whether it will plumb in without drama.
Water volume & boiler/hot water capacity (typical fills ~150–250L)
When selecting a bath, it's important to consider the compatibility with your home's water system. For combi boilers, you can expect a higher flow rate, which means quicker filling times. System boilers and gravity-fed systems typically offer less flow but may still be sufficient for an average bath. Low-pressure systems can struggle to deliver the necessary water flow for full baths, potentially affecting both fill time and shower performance. Be sure to check that your hot water capacity is suitable for the size of the bath you're purchasing, particularly for larger models that require more water to fill.
A typical bath fill is often around 150–250 litres depending on the bath’s shape and how deep you like it. That’s a lot of hot water in one go. If you have a combi boiler, it heats water on demand, but the flow rate might feel slow for filling a large tub. If you have a cylinder, the question becomes: is there enough stored hot water for a full bath and a shower after?
This is also where the “4 minute shower rule” comes up. In the UK, water companies and efficiency campaigns often suggest keeping showers to around four minutes to reduce water and energy use. It’s a useful benchmark because it highlights the trade-off: a deep bath can be a luxury, but it’s usually more water than a short shower. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t have a bath. It just means it’s worth choosing a bath that suits your real habits, especially if hot water runs out quickly in your home.
If you’re considering walk-in baths, many sit in a similar water-use range to standard baths, often roughly 150–240 litres depending on size and fill level. So the boiler and hot water checks still matter.
What size bath should I buy (1500mm vs 1700mm)?
If your bathroom can comfortably take 1700mm, that size is popular because it offers a better adult bathing experience without feeling oversized. But a 1500mm bath can be the right bath when space is tight, especially in a typical UK flat or smaller terrace bathroom.
The key point is not just length. A well-designed 1500mm bath with good internal depth can feel nicer than a shallow 1700mm bath. If you can, compare internal measurements and the depth to the overflow. If you’re mostly showering, a shorter bath that leaves better floor space can also make the room feel safer and easier to live with.
How much does it really cost to buy a bath? (bath + delivery + installation)
When people ask about bathtub cost, they usually mean the price of the bath itself. In real life, the bath is often the smaller part of the spend.
Typical UK price ranges by type and spec (entry to premium)
So, what is the average price of a good bathtub in the UK? For many households, a “good” bath means solid, comfortable, and easy to maintain, rather than luxury materials. As a rough guide, a basic acrylic straight bath can be one of the lowest-cost options, while heavier materials, designer shapes, or specialist accessibility features can raise the price quickly.
The bigger swings usually come from the whole job. If you’re doing a like-for-like swap and keeping tiles, taps and waste positions where they are, the total cost can be relatively controlled. If you’re moving plumbing, changing the layout, or renovating the whole room, costs can rise into several thousands. Many full bathroom renovations in the UK now start around the £7,000 mark and can exceed £14,000 depending on specification and how much building work is needed.
If you’re wondering how much you should spend on a bath, a sensible way to think about it is this: spend enough that it feels sturdy and comfortable every day, then protect your budget by avoiding unnecessary changes to plumbing and tiles unless you truly want them.
Installation cost drivers (floor repairs, tiling, moving waste, taps, bath panels)
Installation cost is shaped by what you can keep and what must change. Removing an old bath can reveal rotten floorboards, damp edges, or crumbling plaster. Those repairs are not glamorous, but they’re often what makes the new bath feel solid and last longer.
Cost also climbs when you:
-
Move the waste and trap to a different position.
-
Change from bath-mounted taps to wall-mounted or floor-mounted taps.
-
Replace or add tiling, especially if the new bath rim sits differently.
-
Need a new bath panel, or a custom panel because the shape is unusual.
-
Add electrical work for a powered seat or pump (walk-in or whirlpool baths).
It’s tempting to choose the bath first and “figure out the rest”. In practice, you save money by choosing the bath that fits your existing setup, unless you’re already committed to a full redesign.
VAT relief and funding routes (20% VAT exemption, Disabled Facilities Grant)
If you’re buying a walk-in bath for someone who qualifies due to a long-term illness or disability, you may be eligible for VAT relief on certain supply-and-install jobs. That can reduce the cost by the equivalent of 20% VAT. To put it simply, a quoted cost of £5,000 could become £4,000 if it qualifies, and £10,000 could become £8,000.
There may also be local authority support through a Disabled Facilities Grant (DFG), depending on eligibility and assessment. Funding routes can take time, so it helps to explore them early, before you’ve booked an installer.
Can I get VAT relief on a walk-in bath?
Possibly, yes. In the UK, VAT relief may apply when an eligible disabled person is having certain goods supplied and installed for their personal use. It usually requires a declaration, and not every part of a wider bathroom renovation will qualify. The safest approach is to check the current rules on gov.uk and make sure your quote clearly shows what is included and whether VAT relief has been applied correctly.
Material and finish choices that affect comfort, durability and upkeep
Bath materials sound like a style choice, but they also affect heat retention, noise, weight, and how the bath feels after a few years of use.
Acrylic vs steel vs cast iron (heat retention, weight, noise, lifespan)
If you’re stuck on “what is better, an acrylic or steel bath?”, it comes down to what you value most.
Material comparison (practical UK view):
| Material | How it feels | Heat retention | Noise | Weight | Typical use |
| Acrylic baths | Warm to the touch | Good (especially thicker acrylic) | Quieter | Light | Common choice, easier upstairs handling |
| Steel baths | Smooth, hard surface | Can lose heat faster | Louder when filling | Medium | Hard-wearing but can feel cooler |
| Cast iron baths | Solid, premium feel | Excellent | Quiet | Very heavy | Best where floors and access allow |
Acrylic has become so common because it’s practical: it’s lighter to handle, it warms quickly, and it’s available in a huge variety of shapes. Acrylic baths are warm to the touch and are known to retain heat well, ensuring a longer, more comfortable soak. Steel baths can be very durable and resist scratches well, but they can feel cold at first and can be noisy as water hits the surface. Cast iron baths are loved for that deep, steady warmth and classic style, but their weight can complicate upstairs installs.
If you want the easy life, choose a well-made acrylic bath with decent thickness and proper support. A very thin acrylic shell can flex, creak, and feel less secure over time, especially if the base isn’t supported properly.
Slip resistance, surfaces and easy-clean coatings (hard-water considerations in the UK)
In hard-water areas, limescale and water marks show quickly, especially on glossy surfaces around the tap and overflow. Easy-clean coatings on screens and certain finishes can reduce daily effort, but the biggest win is choosing a surface you can clean without harsh chemicals.
Slip resistance is also worth thinking about. Many baths are smooth, which is comfortable but can be slippery when soapy. Some people choose an anti-slip base finish, while others prefer a good bath mat they can remove and clean. If anyone in your home is unsteady on their feet, plan this early rather than improvising later.
Colour and styling choices aligned to 2026 UK trends (softer shapes, earthy palettes, brushed metals)
White bath designs are still the most common because they work with almost any bathroom and are easiest to match if you replace other items later. That said, bath colours are becoming more popular, particularly softer, earthy tones and matte finishes. The 2026 direction leans towards calmer shapes, gentle curves, and warmer metal finishes on taps and wastes.
If you’re tempted by a coloured bath, think about how permanent it is. Tiles, paint, and accessories can be changed more easily than a bath. A safe approach is to keep the bath neutral and bring trend colours in through walls, textiles, and tap finishes. On the other hand, if you’re confident in the look and planning to stay in the home, a coloured bath can be the feature that makes the room feel personal.
What to check on product listings (warranty length, included legs/panel, tap holes)
When you buy a bath online or even in-store, small listing details can change the total cost.
Check whether the bath comes with:
-
Legs or a frame (some do, some don’t).
-
A bath panel (often sold separately).
-
Pre-drilled tap holes, no tap holes, or flexible options.
-
A waste kit and overflow, or “bath only”.
Also look for warranty length and clear care instructions. A longer warranty is useful, but only if the bath is fitted correctly on a solid base with proper support. Many “problems” come from poor installation rather than the bath itself.
Accessibility and future-proofing
Future-proofing isn’t only about old age. It’s also about injuries, pregnancy, temporary mobility limits, and just wanting a bathroom that feels safe.
Walk-in bath feature checklist (inward/outward opening door, seals, fast drain, powered seat)
Walk-in baths vary a lot. Even small changes can affect comfort and ease of use.
A practical checklist to discuss before you buy includes the door opening direction (inward or outward), the seal type, the seat height, and whether the bath drains quickly enough for comfort. Powered seat options can be life-changing for some users, but they add complexity, so you’ll want to plan electrics and future servicing access.
If you’re choosing between walk-in baths and a standard bath with added rails, think about the user’s confidence. The right answer is the one that gets used safely every day.
Safety add-ons to plan early (grab rails, anti-slip, thermostatic controls)
Bathrooms are a common place for slips. The NHS and other public health bodies regularly highlight falls prevention, especially for older adults. Planning safety features early lets you fit them neatly, with proper fixing into walls, rather than relying on suction accessories.
Thermostatic controls are worth considering in any home. They help keep water at a steady temperature, which reduces the risk of scalds. This is especially helpful where children use the bath, or where someone has slower reaction times.
Space planning for carers and mobility aids (turning circles, approach zones)
If a carer might assist, or if someone uses a mobility aid, the space around the bath matters as much as the bath itself. You need room to stand, help someone sit, and move safely without twisting.
In a small bathroom, you may not be able to create perfect clearances, but you can avoid obvious pinch points. Sometimes the “best bath for a small bathroom in the UK” is not the deepest or longest, but the one that leaves enough free floor space to move safely.
What is the best bath for a small bathroom in the UK?
For many small UK bathrooms, a straight built-in bath around 1500–1700mm is the easiest solution because it uses wall space efficiently and keeps the centre of the room clear. If you need a bathtub with a shower, a shower bath can make sense, but choose one that doesn’t steal too much floor space.
If accessibility is the driver, you need to consider compact walk-in baths, ensuring the seat comfort, door position, and enough space for a basin and toilet.
Where to buy a bath in the UK (and how to compare like-for-like)
Where you buy affects lead times, returns, aftercare, and how easy it is to resolve problems if something arrives damaged.
Showroom vs trade supplier vs DIY multiples vs online-only (service, lead times, returns)
There’s no single best route. It depends on how confident you feel reading specifications and handling delivery.
| Buying route | Good for | Typical strengths | Typical risks |
| Showroom | Seeing finishes and sizes | Guided choices, coordinated looks | Can be pricier; lead times vary |
| Trade counter/supplier | Straight replacements and quick turnaround | Practical advice, common parts | Often assumes you know what you need |
| DIY multiple | Simple buys and local returns | Convenience, stock options | Limited specialist support |
| Online-only | Wider choice, easy price comparison | Convenience, lots of styles | Returns can be harder; must check specs closely |
If you’re tempted to “buy bathtub” online quickly, slow down and treat it like buying a fitted appliance. Read the technical drawing, check what’s included, and confirm delivery terms in plain English.
How to evaluate specs in listings (internal depth, overflow height, rim width, compatible wastes)
Two baths with the same external size can feel completely different. Internal depth affects whether you can sink into a soak. Overflow height affects the maximum water level. Rim width affects comfort if you like resting your arms, and it can affect which bath taps fit.
Also check compatible bath waste types and whether the bath requires a specific trap depth. In older UK homes, floor void depth can be tight, so a low-profile waste may be needed.
If a listing doesn’t provide a technical drawing, treat that as a warning sign. Baths come in a variety of shapes, and you need those measurements to make the right choice.
Quote comparison checklist (what’s included: removal, disposal, making good, warranty, VAT status)
If you’re getting installation quotes, compare like-for-like. A cheap quote can become expensive if it excludes essentials. You want clarity on removal of the existing bathtub, disposal, making good walls/floors, new fittings, and whether any electrics are required.
For accessibility work, make sure the quote states whether VAT is included and whether VAT relief is applicable and correctly handled. Misunderstandings here can cause stress later.
Red flags to avoid (too-cheap thin acrylic, unclear guarantees, vague delivery terms)
If a bath price looks unusually low, ask why. Thin acrylic can flex and feel less stable. Unclear guarantees can make problems hard to resolve. Vague delivery terms can leave you with a bath on the driveway when you expected help getting it indoors.
Another red flag is missing information: no weight, no internal dimensions, no drawing, no list of included parts. When you’re buying bath products, details matter more than marketing words.
Bath installation planning: what to line up before delivery day
Even a simple swap goes better when you plan the basics. That way, you’re not stuck with a new bath in the hall and no way to fit it.
Pre-install survey checklist (measurements, floor condition, pipework, electrics for powered seats)
A pre-install survey doesn’t need to be complicated, but it should be thorough. Here’s a step-by-step checklist that suits most UK homes:
-
Measure the bathroom and the bath opening (length, width, doorways, stair turns).
-
Confirm the bath type, tap type, and where the waste will connect.
-
Check the floor condition under and around the old bath area.
-
Confirm isolation valves and water shut-off points work.
-
If choosing powered features (walk-in seats, pumps), confirm a suitable electrical supply and safe routing.
-
Confirm ventilation is adequate, because poor ventilation can shorten the life of sealants and finishes.
This is also the moment to decide what you’re doing about tiles. If your new bath rim height is different, you may need patch tiling or a planned re-tile to keep it looking clean.
Choosing the right trades (plumber, tiler; compliance expectations and paperwork)
A bath installation sits at the intersection of plumbing, sealing, and sometimes electrics. A good installer will leave the bath level, solid, and properly sealed, with accessible pipework where possible.
If electrics are involved (for example, powered seats or pumps), use an electrician who can self-certify domestic work where required. For any work touching heating or hot water systems, use appropriately qualified trades. In plain terms, you’re paying for safety and for the job to last, not just for “getting it in”.
Ask what paperwork you’ll receive, especially if electrical work is done, and keep it with your house documents.
Timeline planning for a bathroom renovation (when a full refit starts ~£7,000+)
If you’re doing a full renovation rather than fitting a bath into an existing bathroom, timeline planning matters because delays affect family life fast.
A straightforward bath swap can sometimes be done quickly if nothing changes. A full refit is different: stripping out, first-fix plumbing, electrics, floor prep, waterproofing where needed, tiling, second-fix, then drying time for adhesives and sealants. It also tends to cost more than people expect, with many full bathroom renovations starting around £7,000 and rising with higher specification, layout changes, or structural repairs.
When buying a bathtub for your bathroom, consider ordering early, as lead times for baths can be longer than those for taps or panels.
UK Regulations to Be Aware of
When installing a new bathtub, it's essential to comply with UK regulations. For electrical work, particularly where installation involves a plug or heating element, you’ll need to ensure it meets Building Regulations Part P—this covers all electrical work within bathrooms. Additionally, when it comes to plumbing, make sure any fixtures, such as taps and pipes, are compliant with WRAS (Water Regulations Advisory Scheme) standards. This ensures that components meet water safety and quality standards. Always ask your installer for proof of certification for these approvals and confirm the work is being carried out in line with UK building standards to avoid any legal or safety issues.
How much does it cost to install a bath in the UK?
It depends on whether it’s a like-for-like replacement or part of wider work. If you’re keeping the same bath type, in the same position, and your floor and tiles are in good condition, installation can be relatively contained. Costs rise when you move the waste, change tap positions, repair floors, or re-tile.
The most accurate way to budget is to decide your bath type and tap style first, then get quotes that clearly include removal, disposal, and making good. That stops surprises and helps you compare fairly.
Final checklist and next steps
This last section is designed to pull everything together, so you can move from “research mode” to actually buying a bath with confidence.
One-page “buying a bath” checklist (type → size → material → budget → installer → delivery)
Use this as a simple, printable run-through:
-
Choose the right bath type for your routine: straight, shower bath, freestanding, corner, or walk-in.
-
Confirm bath size: length in mm, width, and internal depth (not just the headline size).
-
Check compatibility: waste position, overflow, tap position, and whether you need special wastes.
-
Confirm material: acrylic, steel, cast iron (and whether weight affects access and flooring).
-
Set a realistic total budget: bath + taps + waste + panels + delivery + installation + making good.
-
Decide where to buy: choose the route with the right balance of support, lead time, and returns.
-
Confirm delivery: access route, kerbside vs carried in, and damage checks on arrival.
-
Book installation: confirm what’s included, timeline, and any electrical needs.
-
Keep proof: warranty, receipts, and care guides.
This is the best way to avoid the classic mistake of buying a beautiful bath and then discovering it needs extra building work you didn’t plan for.
Documents to keep (warranties, care guides, VAT relief declaration if applicable)
Keep your product warranty, installation invoice, care and cleaning guide, and any technical drawing you relied on. If you receive VAT relief for an eligible adaptation, keep the signed declaration and the invoice showing the VAT treatment. These documents are useful if you sell your home, need a repair, or have a warranty claim.
Reference points to cite/verify (Ofwat water use context; gov.uk VAT relief/DFG; relevant BS/EN standards)
If you like to double-check claims, it’s sensible to verify water use context and funding routes through official sources. Water companies and regulators publish guidance on typical household water use, and gov.uk provides the current rules on VAT relief and Disabled Facilities Grants.
For product quality and compatibility, baths sold in the UK often refer to British or European standards. You don’t need to become a standards expert, but it can be helpful to know that reputable manufacturers will state compliance and provide proper technical drawings.
FAQs
1. What should I consider when buying a bath?
When buying a bath, there are a few essential factors to consider to ensure you choose the right bathtub style for your bathroom. First, think about the bathtub size – make sure you have the right measurements, not only for length but also the internal depth, especially if you’re looking for a deeper tub for added comfort. Also, consider the plumbing positions for both waste and taps to avoid any installation headaches. Bathtub costs can vary, so it’s important to look at the total cost, including installation and any adjustments to plumbing or layout. Whether you're opting for a classic straight bath, a shower bath, or a freestanding tub, make sure it complements both the size of your bathroom and your lifestyle needs.
2. What is a good bath to buy for everyday use?
For everyday use, many UK homes find that a well-made acrylic straight bath or a bathtub with a shower is an excellent choice. These baths are comfortable, easy to install, and come in a wide range of standard bathtub sizes UK homeowners commonly use. Acrylic is also lightweight, making it ideal for installation, especially in upper floors. If you're trying to save space, consider a bathtub with a shower – it allows you to enjoy both options without sacrificing too much room. Acrylic straight baths are affordable and come in multiple sizes, meaning you can find one that fits your bathroom perfectly.
3. Is it better to buy a single-ended or double-ended bath?
When deciding whether to buy a bathtub, one of the key decisions will be whether you opt for a single-ended or double-ended bath. Single-ended baths are often the more practical option for most UK bathrooms, as they suit a wide variety of layouts and are generally easier to install with simpler plumbing positions for taps and waste. On the other hand, double-ended baths offer a luxurious experience with more comfort and flexibility for lounging, but you’ll need to check the plumbing positions carefully to make sure everything fits. Depending on your space and how you intend to use the bath, either option could be perfect, but the key is to choose the one that fits both your bathroom and your daily needs.
4. What is the 4-minute shower rule?
The 4-minute shower rule is a practical water-saving guideline that suggests you keep your showers to around four minutes. This simple habit can significantly reduce your water and energy usage compared to bathwater use. When you’re buying a bath, this rule can help you gauge whether a bath or shower would be more efficient for your household. While taking a bath might be the ultimate relaxation, sticking to a shorter shower time can keep your water bills low, especially if you're conscious of both the cost of a bathtub and environmental impact.
5. Can a freestanding bath go in a small bathroom?
Yes, a freestanding bath can work in a small bathroom, but it’s crucial to consider the space you have for cleaning around it and the positioning of plumbing. If you’re working with a compact bathroom, it may be more practical to choose a back-to-wall bath, which still gives you the freestanding bath look but with less of a footprint. When buying a bathtub for a small bathroom, ensure there’s enough room to move freely and that plumbing can be easily installed without disrupting the layout. If space is tight, bathtub sizes UK for smaller bathrooms are available to help you make the most of your space.
References